A Review of Some Fine Burg Establishments 1993

A Review of Some Fine Burg Establishments 1993
(Newark SL)

Consider ravioli stuffed with broccoli rabe instead of the
traditional meat or cheese filling, offered by the chef at
Francesco's in Chambersburg . Or at Sal DeForte's restaurant
in the same community, there is the fruite d'mare alla rustica,
a medley of seafood served in a breaded bird's nest bathed in a
delicate scampi sauce with a touch of cream. But traditionalists
who favor a basic tomato sauce over spaghetti will still be
satisfied. Both Hoboken and Chambersburg have restaurants,
markets, butchers and bakers who specialize in the basics.
In Chambersburg , open the door to Porfirio's Italian Foods on
Anderson Street and gaze in wonder at the enormous selection
stocked inside the small market. There are homemade sausages,
both fresh and dried; huge selections of imported dried pastas;
sweets; cheeses; bottled mineral water, and freshly baked breads.
But Porfirio's is especially famous for its homemade fresh
pastas, especially ravioli filled with meat, cheese and spinach,
roasted peppers, crabmeat or shrimp. There is even a saccharine
version with ricotta cheese sweetened with lemon, cinnamon and
sugar. For someone who comes from Italy, they feel right at home
here," said Anthony Rodriguez, who owns the store with his
father-in-law, Anthony Calabro. Chambersburg is especially famous
for its vast selection of Italian restaurants; each has its own
specialties "and Frank Sinatra. That's the law - you've got to
have Frank on the radio or you're out of the association," said
a laughing Alan Meinster, who owns Marsilio's Restaurant on
Roebling Avenue with his mother-in-law, Grace DiDonato.
A colorful pasta bowl rests at each place setting at Marsilio's,
a reminder that pasta is a menu mainstay. But Meinster said he
is especially proud of his restaurant's veal dishes.
"We prepare veal chops and steaks with delicate sauces like
roasted garlic and basil, or a light red sauce made with
peppers, onions and potatoes," he said. "I also like light wine
sauces or light cream sauces."
One of Chambersburg 's most popular restaurants is one of the
most casual. DeLorenzo 's Tomato Pies on Hudson Street is an
authentic pizzeria with an unusual twist. Unlike pizzas prepared
with tomato sauce and mozzarella, a tomato pie is topped with
plump whole tomatoes, not a thin sauce.
"We call them tomato pies in Trenton because the emphasis is more
on the tomatoes than the cheese," said Gary Amico as he prepared
the pies for a hungry crowd in the tiny establishment. The
demand for DeLorenzo 's pies is so strong that the telephone is
often left off the hook during the busy dinner hour - and there
is no delivery.
To quell a sweet tooth, head to any of the numerous Italian
bakeries in the neighborhood. At Landolfi's Pastry Shop on
Butler Street, owner Gary Bencivengo relies on four generations
of experience to produce a multitude of Italian pastries. There
are trays of flaky sfogliatelle, cheese-filled cupcakes called
pastaciotti and cannoli filled with sweetened ricotta cheese.
There are popular desserts such as tiramisu and a large
selection of biscotti flavored with almonds, hazelnuts,
fruits or amaretto.