Burg Food in 1995

When it comes to food, come to Chambersburg
Times, The (Trenton, NJ) - Wednesday, November 22, 1995
Author: JOAN BELKNAP, Staff Writer

TRENTON _ Where do you go for food in Trenton, you ask? Why,
the Burg, of course. At least since Prohibition was repealed,
and certainly since World War II, the Chambersburg section of
Trenton has been known for having an Italian restaurant
''on every corner.'' And more than restaurants. Chambersburg
hosts Case's Pork Roll at Washington and Ashmore, founded by
George Washington Case, a Belle Mead butcher and farmer, whose
grandson Clifford became a New Jersey governor. Today it is
run by Arlene Grieb, the daughter of the late Russell Case
and her four sons: David, Daniel, Tom and Andrew.
There is J&S Venanzi Frozen Foods on Roebling Avenue. The
wholesale operation is run by son Sandy, whose parents ran a
''family store (there) for like 50 years.'' The tide of Italian
emigres (Napoli was a major player) came in two waves _ one before
the turn of the 20th century to work in the Roebling Wire Works,
and another after the war 50 years ago. They brought with them
their love of food and their love of family. Once upon a time,
a resident of the Burg wouldn't dream of moving out. It is still
true to an extent, but that is changing, as is the periphery of
Chambersburg _ which today encompasses roughly 99 blocks within
the ''walls'' of Liberty Street, South Clinton Avenue, Hamilton
Avenue and Chambers Street. Today, Chambersburg has diversified
with a Quick Check, a 7-11, a Chinese take- out on Hamilton and
an Asian-owned delicatessen. There is even a new French
restaurant within the Burg. Jeff Zieger's Rendez- Vous on
Franklin Street replaces Nancy Demeglio's Francesco's. Once that
spot was DeGeorge's El Dorado. One Italian restaurant sports an
Egyptian chef, Jimmy Kaimes. Amici-Milano, housed in the building
that from 1912 was Trionfetti's, first re-opened as Bobby V's after
extensive renovations by owner Lou Guida. So extensive were the
renovations that Rose Guida, Lou's wife, said, ''All we actually
bought was the address: 600 Chestnut St.'' Now, after a couple of
other incarnations, it is Amici-Milano. When it was Trionfetti's,
young Joe Campo shined shoes on the corner of Roebling and
Chestnut. It was his aunt, Betty Campo, who married Frank
Trionfetti during that restaurant's heyday. Joe later, along with
some of his brothers, bought the popular establishment. Ten years
later he went to the Trenton Country Club, and eight years after
that he joined his son Mickey, who learned to cook at Trionfetti's,
to open Campo's on South Clinton (that is now Leaston's Pub since
Bogarde's bit the dust, as did Casa Vecchia before it). That was
the spot where I embarrassed my son, Handsome Taster, by measuring
a thick veal chop that has never been surpassed in my memory.
Today a new Trionfetti's has opened directly across the street
from the original one, owned by a Trionfetti grandson, Ken Verdi.
Do you see how tight relationships are in Trenton's Little Italy?
Chambersburg was named for Robert Chambers, who first envisioned a
Chambersburg and constructed four buildings, including his
Chambersburg Hotel on South Broad Street. This was in the mid-1850s
when Hamilton Avenue was known (on a 1789 map) as the ''road to Pond
Run and Allentown.'' It was the route for the one-horse-drawn
trolleys that were the only transportation between the South Clinton
site of the new railroad station and the emerging Borough. Yes, the
village of Chambersburg was incorporated in 1872 and later was annexed
by Trenton in 1883, according to papers in the Trentoniana collection
at the Free Public Library. The route later became known as Sandtown
Road because it was the way to the Jersey Shore and later ran past
an outpost that became Old Heidelberg Restaurant.
When construction of homes began in Chambersburg, the first lots
cost $65 and could be purchased $10 per payday until paid for.
Today you can pay between $60,000 and $130,000 for a home in the
area. There are still family-owned-and-operated restaurants in
Chambersburg. Notably the Pingatores, whose Cesare's Restaurant
has always been a favorite of mine. In the 13 years that restaurants
have been my beat, Young Cesare has taken over the kitchen in the
evening, while his father still arises at 5 a.m. to start the soups
and sauces. They live close enough that this is no problem.
When we did a 10-year roundup of favorite restaurants three years
ago, three Chambersburg restaurants, plus Pete Lorenzo's, made The
Times' 10 Best list: Diamond's, Francesco's and La Gondola.
Francesco's is gone, La Gondola has new owners, and Diamond's
continues in its preeminence among Italian restaurants in Mercer
County. And brothers Anthony and Tommy Zucchetti continue to run it
in their ''best-dressed'' fashion, with three women chefs still
holding down the kitchen chores. We also did a Best Affordable
list which included Cesare's, DeLorenzo's Tomato Pies and Jamey's
Pub. Jamey's succumbed to the economy. DeLorenzo's still has
standing room only at certain times of the evening (they open
after 3 p.m.) Cesare's still heaps on the portions and has kept
its head well above water. Another longtime family-owned-and-
operated restaurant is Rossi's, known for its burgers and its
speakeasy past. As I recall, they catered to Giants fans.
Tsk, tsk. No mention of good food in Chambersburg could ignore
the food turned out by Alan Meinster and company at Marsilio 's,
which used to be Marsilio 's Kitchen, along with Rossi's, the
longest continuing operations in the Burg. When Grace DiDonato
took over Marsilio 's, I fell in love with the then-chef's
eggplant rollatini as an appetizer. Thin slices of eggplant
encasing ricotta cheese and herbs, lightly dressed with marinara.
Unbeatable, and it still is today. Michael Stanzione was the chef
then and he still helps DiDonato's co- owner-chef, son-in-law-Alan
Meinster on big weekend projects. Meinster, incidentally, is the
guiding light of the Chambersburg Restaurant Association, which is
dedicated to promoting the area restaurants.
In 1986, when last I wrote about this area, I envisioned a
''dream meal'' in Chambersburg. Besides that wonderful veal chop
at the Campo's that is no more, I chose to open my meal with Papa
Cesare's mussels marinara. La Gondola's special salad was on that
dream menu and it is still special, although Angelo Peluso has sold
the restaurant to his longtime chef Edward Kerekes and is now in
retirement. He suggests that maybe somewhere down the line he will
open ''a little market where I live.'' That is not an announcement.
No story about the Burg would be complete without the Casino
Italian hot dog. A hot dog on a steak roll with fried potatoes
and peppers seems strange indeed to a foreigner from Ohio. No
longer. It is the best, and Casino on Anderson came up with the idea.
If you're in a self-indulgentmood, the incredible garlic toast
awash in melted gorgonzola cheese at Chianti's is an artery-clogging
specialty. Fantastic. For all its lack of ambiance, Clin-Mott's
seafood lacks nothing in freshness and lovely preparation.
Now I have a new favorite menu item: Sonny's Filling Station special
sandwich, the roast pork with roasted peppers and imported
provolone. That's a must try. Crecco's on Morris Avenue and
Anderson Street also deserves a bow. Closed now for several years,
Rich Conti and Rich Jannotti of Casa Mia on South Broad Street have
purchased it and are in the process of gutting and refurbishing it. '
'The way things are moving, it will be sometime in January (1996)
before we can open,'' Conti said. He had expected a mid-November
opening. (Casa Mia was named most often when readers were asked
who had the best meatballs in the area for a story last year.)
Getting to Chambersburg has become easier, especially if you are
coming from below Trenton. From the south, take the new,
unfinished Route 129 to the Hamilton Avenue exit. Turn right
onto Hamilton and proceed east to any of the cross streets:
South Clinton or Chestnut avenues, or Division, Anderson or
Chambers streets. Turn right and you are there. Coming out of
Trenton, if you use 129, you must turn right (Do not try to turn
left onto Hamilton Avenue.) at the Chambersburg exit, right again
onto South Broad Street and then right onto Hamilton Avenue at
the Chambersburg sign.
One other thing you must know about this town within a town:
Parking is at a premium. This is, after all, a neighborhood of
homes. Many of the restaurants have their own parking facilities:
Amici-Milano, Diamonds, Crickets, Roman Hall, Good Time Tavern,
Chianti's. Anyone who has ever lusted for cheesecake makes a
beeline for Michele Lorie, whose cakes are marvelous.
As for steak rolls, it's a tough call between Barbero's and
Italian Peoples bakeries. But Italian Peoples deli makes
marvelous Italian hoagies to go at reasonable prices.
Is homemade roasted pork an item that you just can't manage
at home? Then A. Tammaro Deli Market at Cummings and Divison
streets has the perfect solution. It is their specialty and it
is perfect. There are so many great places in the Burg and so
little space to mention them all. Do yourself a favor, for a
taste of authentic Italian _ take your appetite, grab the map
and explore.


A note from Mack: This article shows how much of the Burg was
still the Burg in the 1990s. It makes me so proud of what we
once were:)