Review from 1999: Cesare's Cafe, 346 Emory Avenue, The Burg

Review from 1999: Cesare's Cafe, 346 Emory Avenue, The Burg

Checking back with Cesare's Cafe
Times, The (Trenton, NJ) - Friday, April 23, 1999
Author: JOAN BELKNAP, Staff Writer

Thirty-six years is a long time in anyone's life. In the life of
a restaurant it is a miracle. Cesare's is that miracle. It has
undergone many changes in those years: from Cesare Pop Pingitore,
to Cesare Junior running the kitchen; from a bar with food to
a restaurant that has very good food and, incidentally, a bar.
The tenor of the menu has changed, too. Once, the focus was on
the elder Cesare's red sauce, mussels marinara and an occasional
homemade pizza, spaghetti and pencil points, and an amazing
15-ounce cheeseburger for the price you would pay for the meat
at the supermarket. Today, the emphasis is on young Cesare's
grill menu, chicken, vegetables, and other lower-in-fat goodies.
What hasn't changed is the family atmosphere and wonderful
Calabrese food served in humongous proportions. It's what keeps
neighbors, friends and other customers coming back year after
year to the simple tables (too small), cloth tablecloths and
paper dinner napkins.

CESARE fans Mary Ann, Rick and Lisa helped me choose from among
the blackboard specials and menu regulars.We chose well.
Complimentary hot and sweet peppers in olive oil and garlic
galore arrived first while we made up our minds. The Tasters
sipped iced tea while I did the same to a glass of Chianti.
Scrumptious peppers, especially the long hot fingers, whose
heat crept up on one, necessitating reliance on the crusty
hot bread. Another unasked for order of pinwheels arrived,
light pastry encompassing mozzarella, topped off with sauteed
giant mushroom slices. Do you sense overabundance here?
A huge salad was next, dressed as always over-enthusiastically,
with a side of anchovies. The greens are mostly romaine, with
onion slices, sliced ripe olives, tomato chunks and cucumber,
and a delicious vinaigrette. Salad comes with the entrees.

Rick chose a seasoned New York strip steak, $16.50, with a
foil-wrapped baked potato and a pile of bright green pea pods
on the side. The steak was thick, juicy and cooked to his
medium-rare order. It was also covered with Cesare's
signature mushroom slices.
LISA HAD dibs on a new menu item: broiled whole chicken breast,
$13.95, covered with sauteed fresh spinach and mushrooms, that
was absolutely to die for. Congratulations to the chef. She and
Mary Ann each had a side of pencil points with Cesare's original
red sauce.
Mary Ann chose a veal parmesan with ricotta cheese, also $13.95.
OK veal and a rich velvety sauce with the inclusion of the
ricotta made this a winner in the Taster's estimation.

I chose a blackboard special, two enormous inch-thick pork chops
broiled and served with slabs of roasted red pepper and mushroom
slices. I had some packed up to go. In fact, I don't think I've
ever seen anyone leave here without taking some food home.
Cesare's has learned over the years that there is no room for
dessert, but they did offer cannoli's, crispy wrappers with sweet,
sweet ricotta filling for $2 apiece. Wear loose-fitting clothing
and be prepared to witness the portions and the friendliness of
this miracle restaurant. By the way, better reserve for a
Saturday night.